Much of Kangaroo Island’s 509 kilometre-long (316 mile) coastline is rugged and rocky, with dramatic and spectacular scenery. The soaring cliffs, towering dunes, dense coastal vegetation, and rock formations that make up much of the shoreline are frequently battered by strong winds and pounding seas. And several active lighthouses scattered around the island indicate further offshore hazards. The conditions are[...]
The post 10 Beautiful Kangaroo Island Beaches appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.
]]>Much of Kangaroo Island’s 509 kilometre-long (316 mile) coastline is rugged and rocky, with dramatic and spectacular scenery. The soaring cliffs, towering dunes, dense coastal vegetation, and rock formations that make up much of the shoreline are frequently battered by strong winds and pounding seas. And several active lighthouses scattered around the island indicate further offshore hazards.
The conditions are perfect for shipwrecks.
But despite the dangers, they’re also perfect for beaches.
There are over 50 Kangaroo Island beaches, in fact—each with its own unspoilt beauty and charm. They’re not all safe for swimming, but discovering the characteristics that make each of them special is an excellent way to explore the island’s different regions and find your own special “KI” (Kangaroo Island) spot.
Come here outside the peak holiday season, and many of the beaches are deserted—apart from seals, penguins, dolphins, sea-birds and the occasional whale out at sea, that is.
With so much choice, however, finding the perfect beach to match your mood can be time-consuming. So narrow it down with my 10 favourite Kangaroo Island beaches and see if there’s one that suits you!
You’re welcome!
After a rough ferry ride on heaving seas from the mainland to Kangaroo Island (KI) across Backstairs Passage, Penneshaw’s sheltered harbour with its deep, turquoise waters and sweeping curve of white sand is a welcome sight and wonderful introduction to the island’s natural attractions.
Just 600 metres (1968 feet) long, the beach stretches around the bay from the jetty terminal to Baudin Conservation Park. Walk the historic trail along the foreshore, try fishing from the beach or jetty, and admire the brilliant colours from vantage points on the walking tracks. At dusk, take a guided tour to see the world’s smallest penguins return from the sea to their nests on the rocks near the beach.
Spend a little time here, and your sub-tropical island beach fantasy may just come true!
From Penneshaw, the road to Cape Willoughby lighthouse passes through Lashmar Conservation Park on the banks of the Chapman River, which flows through the park and out to sea into the beautiful Antechamber Bay. The bay is a 4.2 kilometre-long (2.6 mile) stretch of more of that distinctive KI white sand we first saw in Penneshaw, with beautifully coloured aquamarine waters lapping its shores.
Camp in the park to take full advantage of the spectacular views across Backstairs Passage to the Fleurieu Peninsula. Walkways on either side of the river lead to the beach, perfect for walking and swimming. In the distance at the bay’s easternmost point is the unattended Cape St Albans lighthouse.
Picturesque and protected, the bay and its amenities are so relaxing, it’d be possible to spend your entire KI stay here!
Despite—or perhaps because of—being hard to reach, unsafe for swimming and difficult to explore, Mouth Flat beach is easily my favourite of the Kangaroo Island Beaches. The Willson River meanders through the dune system before entering the sea at Mouth Flat on the Dudley Peninsula’s south coast.
The rough track leading to the flat eventually becomes a private road, so the only way to reach the beach without trespassing is to hike a rough, overgrown and undefined trail along the eastern river bank’s high cliffs through the often impenetrable coastal scrub and through the dunes. Keep the river on your right and the dunes on your left for a couple of kilometres (1.2 miles) and you’ll eventually get to the beach. Watch out for snakes!
Wild seas lash the uneven shore that drops away quickly into treacherous rips and currents. Small footprints in the sand around rocky hollows and small caves in the cliffs at the western end of the beach are evidence that penguins nest and roost here. However, the “path” through the dunes would be difficult to walk at dusk when the penguins are active, and virtually impossible in the dark.
Retracing our steps was difficult enough in daylight, as our footprints weren’t always visible. After exploring the beach, cliffs and river mouth, then deciding that returning via the river bed could be tricky, we bush-bashed our way back through the dense coastal scrub instead.
Untamed, pristine and totally deserted, Mouth Flat beach is the ultimate KI natural attraction that even some locals haven’t been to. Seek it out if you dare!
Site of KI’s most scenic public loo (IMHO), Pennington Bay is a surfing and fishing beach surrounded by high sand dunes on the south-western coast of the Dudley Peninsula. The loo—and the magnificent coastal scenery—compensate for the dangerous rips and rough seas that can make the beach unsafe for swimming. Vantage points overlook the beach at various locations, and watching the ever-changing ocean colours as the waves roll in can be mesmerising. Dolphins—and sometimes whales—can be seen from the lookouts too.
Several access points lead down to the white sand beach, where you’ll often be the only visitors. Don’t miss the surfboard storyboards on the tracks to the beach, or the awesome view from the loo!
Admiring the killer coastal view, inspecting a whale skeleton in the dunes, and watching (and photographing!) the ever-present seals frolicking on the beach and in the surf replace traditional beach activities at Seal Bay, on KI’s south coast.
Access to this beach is limited to guided tours, ensuring that the colony of around 1,000 sea lions that live here are not disturbed by visitors. Alternatively, take a self-guided tour and descend the long, sloping boardwalk (see photo in introduction) down to a vantage point above the beach and watch the seals at rest and play. Above, from a lookout on top of the cliff, the spectacular coastal views are some of the best on KI.
But the seals are the real stars of Seal Bay, and watching them is one of the best beach activities the island has to offer.
The horror bushfires of the 2019/20 Australian summer burned right down to Vivonne Bay’s shoreline. But with its multi-shaded blue waters and six kilometres (3.7 miles) of white sand, it’s still easy to see why the beach was voted best in the world in 2003, and still regularly makes it into Australian Top 10 Beach lists. Including this list of Kangaroo Island beaches! And in photos, the blackened vegetation makes a nice counterpoint to the beach’s vivid colour palette too.
Explore the Vivonne Bay Conservation Park at the western end, fish from the jetty or snorkel the clear waters over the reef. Otherwise walk around the bay and admire the captivating view. On a fine day, the bay is pretty close to paradise!
From the access road on the high, rocky cliffs above Western River Cove, the beach is like a small, brightly coloured jewel amidst craggy, glistening rocks. Up close, the north coast’s rugged scenery is postcard-perfect with clean lines and intense colours. Watch out for the endangered glossy black-cockatoos feeding in the patches of sheoak near the road as it descends steeply to the bay.
The Western River enters the sea here, and there’s a small beach on the river bank below a campground and picnic area complete with scenic loo. Swim in the beautifully clear water, or explore the rocky cliffs on either side of the bay. Unless there’s a group of school children present, as there was during our visit, it’s a peaceful and picturesque place in which to chill out.
Atop Constitution Hill, high above Snellings Beach, the view over the surrounding steep, rolling hills and the beautiful Middle River as it flows into the sea at the small bay’s eastern end is spectacular. If you are lucky enough to stay in accommodation overlooking the beach, waking up to the magnificent view is an added bonus.
Be careful when walking the beach—the tiny beach-nesting hooded plover, with a conservation status of “vulnerable”, can sometimes be seen here. Check the trees around the area too, as koalas are frequently sighted (and heard!) in the area.
Centrally located on the north coast, Snellings is an excellent base from which to explore KI’s top end, but its main attraction is its scenic beauty.
The otherworldly jagged rock formations and smoothly pebbled shore of what I am reliably informed is actually “Little King George Beach” couldn’t be further from the traditional white sand/turquoise water combo found elsewhere on the island.
While it isn’t a conventional swimming beach, it’s good for fishing and excellent for exploring. The colours of the oddly-shaped rocks in the late afternoon sun are spectacular, and walking around the western headland, while taking care not to slip on the rocks, opens up many photo opportunities. So different from the other KI beaches, this little gem is definitely worth visiting.
Finding the “real” Stokes Bay isn’t easy. The car park overlooks a pleasant stony beach, but it doesn’t look anything like the photos. So take the narrow path east to what looks like an impenetrable rocky cliff, follow it through a gap in the rocks, squeeze through an even smaller opening and suddenly you’re on a beautiful stretch of beach. It’s worth the effort.
A series of natural rock pools near the entry and exit point near the cliff are safe for swimming and exploring. It’s a pleasant stroll along 300 metres (980 feet) of white sand to the other end of the beach where you’ll discover some unusual rock formations.
An escape through the unusual entrance onto the secluded cove of Stokes Bay beach is an escape from your cares for a few hours.
Of course this is just an introduction to the amazing array of beaches to explore on Kangaroo Island—there are plenty more to discover and enjoy.
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]]>Kangaroo Island Bushfires Choking back tears, he told me “I looked out over the plain and howled. It’ll take a long time to recover, and it probably won’t be in my lifetime”. I was talking to David, a now-retired guide who had spent 15 years conducting eco-tours in Flinders Chase National Park and the adjoining Ravine des Casoars Wilderness Protection[...]
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]]>Choking back tears, he told me “I looked out over the plain and howled. It’ll take a long time to recover, and it probably won’t be in my lifetime”.
I was talking to David, a now-retired guide who had spent 15 years conducting eco-tours in Flinders Chase National Park and the adjoining Ravine des Casoars Wilderness Protection Area on South Australia’s Kangaroo Island. He was telling me about his reaction to the horrific bushfires, started by lightning strikes, that burnt more than 46% of the island’s 440,500 hectares (1,700 square miles) over several weeks of the 2019/2020 Australian summer. Two lives and 50 houses were lost in the blaze, numerous farms and businesses ruined and thousands of animals—both livestock and wildlife—perished.
I knew what he meant. I had just seen the devastation he was describing for myself from the Bunker Hill observation point that looks out over the coastal plain. Over 72,000 hectares (278 square miles), or about 96% of the bushland in the park was destroyed by the fires, and it was a confronting sight.
Once covered in lush eucalypt woodlands and dense coastal scrub, the rolling hills and plains were open and bare where the understory and low vegetation had been burnt away. In many places, only scorched tree trunks remained, very different to the verdant forests I remembered from my only other visit to Kangaroo Island 15 years earlier.
The bushfires have had devastating environmental, economic and personal consequences for Kangaroo Island’s 4,500-strong population, and have forever separated its history into “before” and “after” the blaze. Recovery on all fronts has been long, slow and hindered even further by COVID-19 restrictions.
Despite the extensive fire damage, it’s easy to see why the national park still attracts many of Kangaroo Island’s 140,000 annual visitors. Nearly ten months on, the bushland’s regeneration is well under way. A mantle of green is starting to cover the blackened ground and new growth sprouts from the burnt tree trunks.
The island has become a land of dramatic contrasts. In the forest and farmland, the fire’s trail of destruction can end abruptly, leaving bare, burnt ground and untouched greenery side by side. Rocks, dunes and land formations are now strikingly bare where ground cover and the understory once hid them. In places, where the flames reached the sea, there is now an eerily beautiful juxtaposition of blackened vegetation against the island’s signature aquamarine waters.
Visiting the island now is not only a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to witness its regeneration first hand, but also to assist community recovery by providing much needed cash flow to affected businesses and tourism operators.
Kangaroo Island, or “KI” (pronounced “kay-eye”) as it is known to locals, is Australia’s third-largest island after Tasmania and Melville Island.
Travelling KI’s 155 kilometre (96 mi) length is a journey through a stunning wilderness landscape with 540 kilometres (335 mi) of rugged coastline. Explore untouched beaches and dune systems, rivers and lakes, lush forests and oddly-shaped rocky outcrops. Diverse animal and plant life, fresh regional produce and friendly locals all add to the relaxed island vibe. Despite the devastation of the fires, the attractions are all still here. A day or two will not be enough to experience everything the island has to offer.
The fastest way to reach KI is a 30-minute flight from Adelaide, capital of the state of South Australia, to KI’s Kingscote Airport. Alternatively, take the ferry for a 45-minute ride across Backstairs Passage to KI’s Penneshaw, 22 kilometres (13.6 mi) from the closest mainland ferry terminal at Cape Jervis.
From Adelaide, it’s a 90-minute drive through the Fleurieu Peninsula to cover the 100 kilometres (62 mi) to Cape Jervis at its south-western tip. Driving from Adelaide gives the option of taking your own vehicle on the ferry, recommended for those who wish to explore the entire island. Caravans, camper trailers and campers can also be taken on the ferry, although tours are available for those without transportation.
My travelling companions and I decided to drive from Adelaide and first explore parts of the Fleurieu Peninsula’s western coastline en route to the Cape Jervis wharf. As we only had a few hours before our ferry departed, a full exploration of the peninsula’s stunning coastline and picturesque inland region wouldn’t be possible.
Instead, we chose a cross-section of attractions, including Port Noarlunga’s long jetty and red rocky walls above the Onkaparinga River mouth; the rolling vales and dramatic cliffs sweeping down to the sands of Sellicks Beach; the memorial to Australia’s only saint, Mary McKillop, in the Yankalilla township; the clear blue waters of Normanville beach; and Second Valley’s unusual coastal rock formations.
Backstairs Passage, the strait between Cape Jervis and Penneshaw, is known for its rough seas so choosing the best time to cross can be like picking a winning lottery ticket. According to ferry staff, our afternoon crossing was a rough one, but not as bad as the morning trip when most of a large school excursion group became violently sea-sick.
A turbulent crossing isn’t always bad news though. For us birdwatchers, heavy seas can mean a greater chance of spotting ocean-going birds such as shearwaters, petrels and albatross, not usually seen this close to land. The only trick is to stay upright on deck and hold the binoculars steady as the ferry heaves and rolls through the waves and cross-currents.
Discovery of stone tools, middens (ceremonial sites), campfire sites and cave shelters on KI are proof of Australian Indigenous occupation, thought to pre-date colonial settlement by up to 65,000 years. It is believed that a group of people remained on the island when rising waters separated it from the mainland 10,000 years ago during the last glacial period. Evidence also indicates they left the island 2,000 – 4,000 years before European colonisation, although it is unclear how or why.
Indigenous people from the mainland knew the island as Karta Pintingga or “Island of the dead”. This is because during the Aboriginal Dreamtime, the period in which life was created, a Spirit Ancestor travelled to the island en route to the Milky Way and was followed here by spirits of the dead seeking the afterlife.
There is some doubt as to when colonial exploration of KI began. The generally accepted version starts in 1802 when Matthew Flinders landed here while on an expedition to map Australia’s southern coastline for the British Government aboard HMS Investigator. He unimaginatively recorded it as “Kanguroo Island”, for its many kangaroos, a welcome source of fresh meat.
After leaving the island, the Investigator met French ship Le Geographe, captained by Nicolas Baudin. Although their countries were at war, the two captains exchanged information and later that year, Baudin mapped part of the KI coastline, giving many of its geographic features French names.
However, the discovery of an inscription on a tree in the Cygnet River locality dated 1800 and stating “The place for fat meat” indicates that the island was already known by then. To whom, and for how long is unknown.
Baudin’s crew later met some American sealers aboard the brig Union and passed on details of the island to them. The Americans had a quota of 12,000 seal skins, and so KI’s sealing industry began, closely followed by the arrival of whalers.
In 1836, the first free (non-convict) European settlement in Australia was established on KI by the British based South Australian Company. Faced with many difficulties, most of the colony relocated to the mainland four years later, leaving behind a few settlers whose tenacity and ingenuity in surviving harsh conditions are characteristics still evident in the present-day KI community.
Nowadays, KI produce is renowned for its quality and exported around the world. A variety of industries includes honey from the purest strain of Ligurian bees in the world; boutique wineries, breweries and a distillery; aquaculture and seafood; eucalyptus oil, lavender and olive products; oats and other cereal crops; along with livestock, sea salt, free range eggs and beauty products, all available from local outlets and shopfronts.
The ferry docks at the small town of Penneshaw, located at the island’s eastern end, a good base for exploring the Dudley Peninsula. Untouched by the fires, the peninsula’s natural attractions are a good introduction to life on KI.
We spent a day exploring the three conservation parks along the Dudley Peninsula’s south-eastern coastline. From mid-May to late October, southern right whales and the occasional humpback whale can be seen from the cliff tops along this section of the coast. Blue whales, the world’s largest animal, can also be seen from the shores, although they are more likely to be found feeding in upwelling zones further offshore, where nutrient-rich cold water rises from the ocean depths.
Baudin Conservation Park, with its coastal hiking trails and historic sites, is only two kilometres (1.24 mi) south-east of Penneshaw, not to be confused with Baudin Beach to the south-west.
Lashmar Conservation Park, halfway between Penneshaw and Cape Willoughby, is noted for its fishing, swimming, birdwatching and canoeing. There’s a popular camping area where the Chapman River, which flows through the park, enters the ocean at Antechamber Bay, with its beautiful sandy beach.
At KI’s easternmost point is the isolated Cape Willoughby lighthouse outpost, where South Australia’s first lighthouse was built in 1852. The lighthouse, attached museum and walking trails around the cape are now part of the Cape Willoughby conservation park.
Back in Penneshaw, watch the sunset over Christmas Cove. Then take an evening tour to see little penguins (Eudyptula minor) coming ashore on the beaches and cliffs after a day feeding out at sea.
Hog Bay Road follows a string of beaches, including Baudin Beach, south-west from Penneshaw to Prospect Hill, right on the peninsula’s narrow neck where it adjoins the central and western parts of the island. Follow in Matthew Flinders’ footsteps and climb the large sand dune, KI’s highest point, for 360 degree views north across Pelican Lagoon to American River and south to Pennington Bay. These days, a 350-step staircase makes the steep climb easier while protecting the fragile dunes beneath.
From Prospect Hill it’s a 10 kilometre (6 mi) drive north to the small settlement of American River. After staying in Penneshaw overnight, we moved here for the remainder of our stay as it offers easier access to the rest of KI’s attractions.
The locality was named in true Aussie style for a group of American sealers who camped on the shores of Pelican Lagoon, an ocean inlet which they mistakenly thought was a river. Sunrise over the inlet can be spectacular, with black swans (Cygnus atratus) and other water birds plentiful.
“Every morning I’d be given a koala to nurse for the day,” Kylie, an accommodation host based in American River, told me. “The next morning I’d be told that the koala I’d been looking after had died during the night. It was heartbreaking.” She and her husband had only lived on the island a short time before the fires, and even though the American River community wasn’t directly under threat, the smoke was so thick they thought they’d have to leave. They and their neighbours spent some tense nights watching the glow in the sky and hearing horror stories about what was happening at the other end of the island.
Once the fires raged out of control and all visitors had returned to the mainland, Kylie volunteered to help out at the wildlife rescue centre, set up to care for the influx of injured animals rescued by locals and firefighters.
While exact pre- and post-bushfire numbers are unknown, it is believed that 80% of the estimated 50,000 koalas on KI perished. About 40% of those treated in the centre were rehabilitated to be released back into the wild, thanks to the tireless work of volunteers and donations from around the world.
The Mercure Kangaroo Island Lodge where I was a guest, is located right across the road from the American River inlet. With comfortable and well-appointed rooms, an excellent restaurant and friendly, helpful staff, it’s also a good base from which to explore other parts of the island. Don’t miss sunrise over the inlet—the colours, reflections and waterbird silhouettes can be stunning. Afterwards, treat yourself to the wonderful breakfast buffet in the restaurant.
Famous for its seafood, American River’s most well known (and possibly most visited) attraction is the Oyster Farm Shop. It offers a daily selection of fresh seafood including local oysters, abalini (baby abalone), marron (freshwater crayfish), King George whiting and calamari.
Just outside town a hiking trail leads to the remains of the town’s historic fish cannery, established around 1890, but abandoned two years later as there was no way to store and keep excess fish. A short drive north-west of town is Redbanks, where multi-coloured cliffs tower above the beach.
KI is home to an endemic subspecies of the critically endangered glossy black cockatoo (Calyptorhynchus lathami halmaturinus), and the American River flock can often be seen around the town and nearby bushland.
Kingscote, located 38 kilometres (24 mi) north-west of American River, is KI’s largest town and commercial centre. The first free Australian settlement was set up at nearby Reeves Point, now a reserve with walking trails and historic sites listed on the South Australian Heritage Register. The Nepean Bay jetty is a well known fishing spot, and great for sunrise or sunset shots. Look for sea lions and dolphins in the waters, and if you are lucky, you may see a koala wandering Kingscote’s main street.
Explore the north coast’s secluded beaches from here, including the white sands of Emu Bay; the rocky portal leading to Stokes Bay; and the superb swimming and fishing at Snelling Beach. Parts of this region were hit hard by the bushfires, but much of the north-coast, especially the eastern end, is now accessible.
Snellings View, where I was a guest, makes an excellent base from which to discover the delights of the North Coast’s stunning coastal scenery—or just hide away and relax. With magnificent views over Snellings beach and the surrounding farmland from the deck, the open-plan lounge/dining area and both double bedrooms, this luxurious getaway is fully self-contained. Photos from a book produced by the owners show that the bushfires burned right up to the deck.
“I was wearing my mother’s engagement ring and a ring belonging to my late sister that day. My other jewellery and belongings were obliterated in the fire,” Priscilla, a north-coast local told me, describing the devastating losses the day that she and her partner lost their home.
“A year later, I’m still discovering things I didn’t realise were gone, and I feel the loss all over again. Luckily I had uploaded a lot of photos to Facebook because my hard drive and backup were destroyed.” The displacement of living in temporary accommodation without a permanent home to which they can return isn’t easy either.
Priscilla and her partner are now rebuilding, but the process is hampered by the logistics of living on an island. Returning to normal life is still a long way off but the support of the KI community, all of whom have been affected in some way by the fires, has been invaluable.
The South Coast road is known for its nature- and adventure-based attractions. Although the fire reached the sea here, the stunning colours, white sandy beaches and rock pools of Vivonne Bay make it easy to see why this beach was declared best in the world in 2003, and is arguably KI’s best beach location. Spend a day swimming, surfing, snorkelling, fishing, hiking or canoeing the Harriet River which meets the sea at the bay.
Nearby is Little Sahara, a coastal dune system popular for sandboarding and tobogganing. Sand buggies, quad bikes or fat bikes are also on offer by tour companies, with guided walking tours and kayaking also available.
Further east, the Seal Bay Conservation Park’s Australian sea lion colony can be observed from the Visitor Centre viewing platforms. Take a self-guided boardwalk tour, or get even closer on a guided tour.
From American River, we took the 105 kilometre (66 mi) drive south-west to the Flinders Chase National Park entrance, taking about 75 minutes. En route, the fire damage became progressively worse until we reached the Bunker Hill lookout mentioned above, where the worst effects of the fire can be seen.
In the far south-west at Cape du Couedic, the low coastal vegetation is intact, a stark contrast with other coastal sections of the park now blackened and burnt. The Kangaroo Island Wilderness Trail, a five day trek passing through here, was badly damaged by the fires, but a modified version is now open. It is a rare opportunity to see bushland regeneration firsthand and view open landscapes not previously visible when covered by dense vegetation. Guided bushfire tours are also available.
From the cape, a boardwalk descends into the cavernous Admirals Arch, a haven for the 7,000-strong long-nosed fur seal (Arctocephalus forsteri) colony living and breeding on the cape and Casuarina islets. By the 1880s, fur seals had been hunted almost to extinction for their thick, water repellent pelts. From 1900, various levels of protection have applied to the islets, and now the Western Kangaroo Island Marine Parks protect the waters these seals call home.
Wildlife is returning to the bushfire zone, although much of the habitat they relied on for food and shelter was destroyed. Rosenberg’s goanna (Varanus rosenbergi), a large monitor lizard, and the KI subspecies of short-beaked echidna (Tachyglossus aculeatus multiaculeatus) are able to bury themselves underground during bushfires in order to survive.
KI’s treacherous coastline and unpredictable waters have been responsible for over 80 shipwrecks. After lighthouses were built at Cape Willoughby and Cape Borda, the Cape du Couedic lighthouse was completed in 1909 after five ships and 79 lives were lost in the surrounding waters. Before road access to the cape, all lighthouse supplies—and visitors—were hoisted from the nearby Weirs Cove landing up a 92 metre (300 ft) high sheer cliff face to the settlement via a primitive “flying fox” winching system made of pulleys and ropes.
Ironically, no vegetation obscures the park’s most well known feature—the Remarkable Rocks—thanks to the bushfires. The tumbling pile of fractured granite blocks, weathered over millennia, sits on a large dome of exposed granite above a sheer cliff, clearly visible from Weirs Cove and the coast-hugging road. A coating of bright orange lichen renders some of the rocks even more bizarre.
Featuring in films such as “Napoleon” (1995), and “The December Boys” (2007), the rocks have also starred in countless home movies and social media posts. Many visitors have their photo taken under the “Turtle Beak”, a piece of hollowed-out rock shaped like a hooked finger dangling above the rocky base. Exploring the odd shapes and textures of the rocks can take a while if you’ve got a camera, and watching other people exploring the rocks can take even longer.
Although these were the only park attractions open to the public during our stay, I wasn’t disappointed. Seeing the park’s recovery firsthand replaced the despair I had felt when watching the horrifying blaze on the news night after night. I’m already looking forward to returning once more attractions have reopened.
Indisputably, the close-knit KI community is known for its resilience and courage, and for working together to preserve and protect the island they love. After seeing the beauty that remains and regeneration in the bushfire zone, it is even more apparent that this island is a special place.
While full recovery may take many more years, don’t leave it too long to experience its wonders. Kangaroo Island’s attractions await!
The post Beauty and Bushfires: Exploring Kangaroo Island, South Australia appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.
]]>For a good time, spend a few nights at Central Australia’s Ormiston Gorge and surrounds. On our stay, we managed 6 fun-filled days (and nights)! Here’s how! A geologist’s fantasy, the long line of Central Australia’s Western MacDonnell Ranges stretches out across the desert plains from Alice Springs. It’s full of spectacular scenery, gorges, rivers, mountains and rock formations. 135[...]
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]]>For a good time, spend a few nights at Central Australia’s Ormiston Gorge and surrounds. On our stay, we managed 6 fun-filled days (and nights)! Here’s how!
A geologist’s fantasy, the long line of Central Australia’s Western MacDonnell Ranges stretches out across the desert plains from Alice Springs. It’s full of spectacular scenery, gorges, rivers, mountains and rock formations.
135 km west of Alice Springs, Ormiston Gorge’s 300 metre (985 feet) walls tower above Ormiston Creek. The doubled-over double layer of quartzite folded into itself has made the gorge’s walls significantly higher than those of the other gorges in the region. Its location in the surrounding ranges means superb panoramas, wonderful walks and a marvellous base from which to experience the region.
Here’s my guide to 7 FAAABULOUS experiences to have within a 10km radius of Ormiston Gorge!
‘Oh, you’ve missed the sunrise,’ she said, smirking with a particularly smug condescension. It almost – but not quite – masked the unfortunate inanity of her claim.
Wouldn’t I have noticed if I’d been climbing the steep, narrow and rocky track to the lookout in the total darkness of the pre-dawn night?
No, the sun-drenched landscape was a dead give-away. I clearly HADN’T missed the sunrise!
I’d just experienced it in a different spot.
Secure in the superiority that one-upmanship brings to the uninformed, the couple descended into the chill of the Gorge. They were hung about with the several thousand dollars worth of photography paraphernalia that would prove their sunrise claims and show off their ‘serious traveller’ credentials.
Unused to such mindless competitiveness before breakfast, I got out my trusty single lens/single SD card/single battery/no tripod camera.
Even though the sun had ALREADY RISEN, the fine view from Ghost Gum Lookout above the towering walls of Ormiston Gorge was just begging for some amateurish clichéd landscape shots …
As the ALREADY RISEN sun continued to ascend, the chill of the cold Central Australian desert night wore off. I wondered if the Camp Bore had left yet. The previous night, he’d set everyone straight about a number of diverse topics at the communal Barbecue area. Then he’d inadvertently ‘entertained’ everyone in the campground with a DVD on ‘Super-loud’ setting presumably to counteract his deafness. And early this morning, he’d treated a fellow camper, foolish enough to admit to not having heard the dingos the previous night with a howling dingo impersonation.
Then way down in the gorge beneath us, I sensed a movement. After the Camp Bore’s strangled yodelling it was quite a surprise to see the dingo moving so quietly and surely along the water’s edge.
Hunting for fish.
No, really. Every year as the waterhole dries out, more and more fish compete for less and less oxygen in the shrinking pools. Then along comes a dingo in search of some easy pickings and scoops them out!
We may have ‘missed the sunrise’.
But in a superb combination of poetic justice AND childish satisfaction (that gave my inner child an unkind shiver of glee) WE saw the dingo.
Na na nana nah!
This extraordinary 7 km loop trail passes through a cross-section of Ormiston Gorge’s scenic highlights. Then there’s the possibility of swimming or wading through the ice-cold water of Ormiston Creek towards the end of the trail. That’s just part of the fun.
But don’t let this – or anything else – stop you from attempting this 3-4 hour hike. In my opinion, even though we didn’t spot the Spinifex Pigeon family that EVERYONE ELSE saw, it’s one of the best medium length walks in the country!
If this teaser pic isn’t enough, click HERE to see what happened when WE did the walk!
The Ormiston Gorge and Pound walk is a mere detour on the 223 kilometre/12 section hike through the West MacDonnell ranges that forms the demanding Larapinta Trail. Difficult terrain, extreme weather and a remote location mean it’s not for the faint-hearted – or under-prepared.
But lack of training, portable camping equipment or energy needn’t prevent a ‘Larapinta Lite’ experience! Part of an official section of the trail connects Ormiston Gorge with Glen Helen Gorge, a few kilometres away by road. It’s quite probably one of the easier sections of the trail to attempt.
We ventured a few kilometres down this section of the track. Past staggering views of Mt Sonder and the Pound we finally reached a lookout point with the stunning red cliffs of Glen Helen gorge in the distance. After a fruitless search for Rufous Crowned Emu Wren, we returned the way we’d come vowing that next time we’d organise a pick up at Glen Helen Resort and walk all the way.
BUT … far more importantly, now I can add the Larapinta Trail to the list of major walks I’ve ‘attempted’!
Because no one takes my list seriously anyway!
The region is so crowded with spectacular gorges, travellers wishing to avoid the risk of becoming ‘all gorged out’ are often tempted to bypass a couple of them!
But skipping Glen Helen Gorge would be a mistake.
Not just because of the spectacular Gorge itself, either. The Glen Helen Resort offers meals and accommodation, along with tours, helicopter flights, fuel and gas. As well as a well stocked bar.
And you can’t have too much RED Rock, right?? There’s more about Glen Helen Gorge HERE!
Mt Sonder isn’t the Northern Territory’s highest mountain – that honour goes to Mt Zeil – but it’s (arguably) the most picturesque!
And as a real Larapinta trekker told us after climbing the mountain on the previous day’s hike – ‘it’s a better view OF than FROM’!
There’s something about its Namatjira-esque blue folds that draws one towards it. But we (fairly easily) resisted the impulse to climb it and instead opted for the Mt Sonder Lookout a short distance west of Glen Helen.
It’s a fine view in its own right. And there’s an added bonus because you’re looking across the ancient bed of what is known as the world’s oldest river – the Finke.
The collection of campers at the Ormiston Gorge campground during our 6-night stay would have defied any B-grade movie casting director to create a better ensemble.
So much so that hanging out at camp was as entertaining as anything else the gorge had to offer.
Well, almost!
I guess you know you’re getting older when listening to the young couple 6 months into a year travelling Australia gives you a whole new perspective on young-love-speak. Sure, the “’Hi Baby’/’Hey sweetie!’” combo wasn’t that unfamiliar – but after spending only 5 minutes apart??
Then the dialogue as they prepared to leave.
‘Hey sweetie, have you packed the bedding?’ ‘Sure, babe.’ ‘There just seems more room than usual.’ ‘Well, maybe I just folded them differently.’ ‘You must have packed them in a particularly awesome kinda way!’ ‘Yeah sweetie.’ ‘So do you fold them up, honey?’ ‘No, I just throw them in, babe.’ ‘I’m flabbergasted!’ ‘Hey, why don’t we make X’s favourite meal when we catch up?’ ‘Babe, that’s a GOLDEN idea!’ Education and entertainment all in one, we were sorry to see them go.
But replacing them was Broken Hill artist, Eric McCormick whose vibrant works beautifully capture the magic of the desert. Eric took our breath away with a catalogue of his works inspired by a visit to Spain’s Rio Tinto. We also enjoyed several entertaining chats over the communal barbecue.
The aforementioned Camp Bore spoke so loudly we all knew that he and his longsuffering wife had spent the best part of 5 years on the road. At the rate of one new campsite every few nights, I wondered how many people he’d potentially annoyed and irritated during that time.
Then there was the couple with such a faulty sense of direction that when trying to find the Gorge and Pound walk they’d ended up somewhere else altogether. We tried to explain how to access the Larapinta segment we’d done, but they couldn’t find it. I wonder whether they even knew they were at Ormiston Gorge?
With hot showers and free barbecues, the $10 per night per person rate seemed quite reasonable for a site within cooee of the gorge and all its attractions. But the camp hosts still spent a good part of their day in a losing battle to keep the freeloaders from hogging the amenities the rest of us had paid for. In a vain attempt to keep the solar-heated hot water for those who’d paid for it, the showers were locked from 10am – 4pm each day.
Except on the hosts’ day off when the amenities were left open all day. Word gets around – a steady stream of campervans and clapped out old cars headed in, showers apparently ran hot all day and the water was well and truly cold by the time we returned from our daily adventures.
Is it something in the air? Or water? Or does this strange and magical place attract the quirky, off-beat and downright bizarre?
And if so, what does that make US?
The Ghost Gum Lookout is part of a longer loop walk along the Gorge’s western wall. The trail descends into the gorge and returns by rock-hopping along the creek bed. Whether or not you attempt the whole loop, it’s well worth reaching the lookout in the very late afternoon.
Because looking across the gorge from the lookout is very different to the sunrise ALREADY RISEN SUN view as the setting sun lights up the Eastern wall.
But … far down the gorge and deep in the silence of sunset, the dingo lurked again!
Read More about Central Australia:
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]]>The day we got to Kununurra WA started WAY too early. As the clock ticked over past midnight, Are You Lonesome Tonight and I was only 19 thundered from (respectively) the vehicle cab and the top-of-the-range caravan parked next to us in Timber Creek. Yes, you’re right. You’d have to be VERY drunk for that to sound good. A couple[...]
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]]>The day we got to Kununurra WA started WAY too early.
As the clock ticked over past midnight, Are You Lonesome Tonight and I was only 19 thundered from (respectively) the vehicle cab and the top-of-the-range caravan parked next to us in Timber Creek.
Yes, you’re right. You’d have to be VERY drunk for that to sound good.
A couple of hours later, our lonesome loser neighbour finally dropped into a drunken stupor putting an end to both the impromptu musical experiment and our misery.
Two bleary-eyed hours drive west got us to the Northern Territory/Western Australia border (the flat tyre didn’t help) where we scored an extra 90 minutes, courtesy of the time difference between the NT and Western Australia. Making it about 9:00 am, WA time!
Half an hour later, the different world – make that universe – of our camp-site at the Lakeside Resort Caravan Park on the shores of Lily Creek Lagoon – with lonesome losers noticeably absent – made an excellent base from which to explore the attractions of the East Kimberley.
And because we’d got there so early in the morning, we could get started on our long, long list of things to do in Kununurra and surrounds straight away.
Yes, camping in Kununurra is the best way to see it all – and there’s a LOT to see and do for independent travellers who like natural attractions. We were planning a four-day stay – but ended up being there for 10!
SO … where to start? Just use this list of my favourite things to do in Kununurra and start exploring!
I hope you enjoy them (and Kununurra!) as much as we did
It’s VERY convenient that the best view of Kelly’s Knob in Kununurra is from the Ivanhoe Café! Or is that just MY opinion?? If you’re anything like us, you’ll find yourself spending a LOT of time at the cafe, especially during the heat of the day when exploring grinds to a halt.
That’s why the best time to visit Kununurra is during the Australian winter and Top End Dry Season, from about April to October. But be warned … that’s also the busiest time!
After a session at the cafe, work off the spectacularly fabulous icecreams, smoothies and other goodies chock-a-block with awesome Kununurra produce by climbing to the vantage point at the top of Kelly’s Knob to get your bearings AND enjoy the spectacular view over the town and mountain ranges beyond. The landscape’s surprisingly green in this part of the East Kimberley, courtesy of the Ord River Irrigation Scheme.
Pssst! The real view is even better than what you can see in the photo above!
Why the excellent Anzac Hill Lookout we stumbled upon just out of town heading west, and giving an entirely different perspective, doesn’t appear in any of the tourist information I’ll never know … track it down for yourself and see which one you prefer!
The East Kimberley’s natural attractions can so spectacular they overshadow its hazards. And that could be fatal in Kununurra – because while the Ord Irrigation Scheme has turned this harsh landscape into a food bowl thanks to the engineering marvel of the Ord River Dam, it didn’t get rid of the crocodiles!
There are plenty of reminders of the dangers along the river banks – but don’t let that stop you fishing for barramundi (does anyone bother with any other types of fish?); having a picnic; or even taking an upstream cruise for 57 kilometres to the Lake Argyle Dam Wall.
No boat? No problem! Local cruise operators will be happy to see you on board!
But no matter how hot it gets, don’t even THINK about going swimming!
The arid Carr Boyd Ranges near Kununurra probably aren’t where you’d imagine an inland sea over 1000 km² to be.
If that’s what you thought, you’d be right. Lake Argyle, Australia’s largest body of fresh water, didn’t naturally occur. It was formed when the Ord River Dam was slapped across the river’s narrowest point in an incredible feat of engineering and construction that drowned valleys, pastoral leases and a whole mountain range!
But the staggering scenery surrounding Lake Argyle is SO worth the ~70 km one way drive south-east from Kununurra back towards the WA/NT border we did it twice. The first time was just to explore; the second for the must-do early morning cruise.
It’s also worth doing for the wildlife – over a third of Australia’s bird species can be found here at various times of the year.
Oh! And there’s also a proliferation of scenic public loos!
It’s said that the damming of the river means none of the large and deadly saltwater crocodiles live above the dam wall, although there have been sightings. But the absence of predators means there are a LOT more of the less dangerous freshwater crocodiles.
SO … if you’re crocodile-averse, don’t go in the water AND definitely don’t sign up for the annual Lake Argyle 10 or 20 km swimming races, held annually on the first Saturday in May!
Australia’s only species of Boab tree grows almost exclusively – but plentifully – in the Kimberley. Even if you haven’t seen a Boab tree for real, its distinctive shape and silhouette appear in all the galleries – on paintings, prints, cards, carvings, photographs and jewellery. I’m still having withdrawal symptoms over the earrings that got away – how I managed to leave those brightly coloured glass squares with tiny Boab tree silhouettes in the shop remains a mystery to this day.
And now it’s too late … I can’t find them ANYWHERE on line
Luckily, wild Boab trees are easy to find around Kununurra.
But if you haven’t got time for hunting, they’re also found in captivity – at the Kununurra Celebrity Tree Park at the edge of Lily Creek Lagoon. And although I couldn’t find a celebrity tree dedicated to Red Nomad OZ amongst those for notables such as John Farnham and Princess Anne, I’m sure it’s just a matter of time!
Isn’t it?!?! Please say yes!
Like its giant friend Lake Argyle, Lily Creek Lagoon on the outskirts of Kununurra isn’t natural. But it’s an awesome backdrop to a rock formation that looks (supposedly) like a Sleeping Buddha from the Celebrity Tree Park; and (even more supposedly) an Elephant’s head from the Zebra Rock Gallery’s vantage point just down the road.
It’s also a wildlife hotspot.
Of course it’s a helluva lot easier to go wildlife spotting on Lily Creek Lagoon when you’re camping right on its banks at the Lakeside Resort Caravan Park campground like we were. By day, watch a variety of bird-life on and around the lagoon, including Comb-crested Jacana, also called the ‘Jesus bird’, hopping around on the lily pads; and the Crimson Finches hopping around on the banks – and at our campsite.
You might even get to take part in a real life rescue! Like we did when a bird misjudged the length of a lily pad and slid into the water. Did I mention the lagoon is full of fresh-water crocodiles?
Sunset brings the Sleeping Buddha to life – at least as much as is possible for a reclining figure – and the Lagoon dramatically reflects the sky’s RED glow.
But the night belongs to those crocodiles … take a torch and watch the RED glow glinting from their eyes if you dare!
Wondering when the selfie-taking joggers completely oblivious to the 3 metre snake sunning itself at their feet would either notice it or step on it was like watching a car crash.
Was it so wrong to have my camera ready?
Luckily (or unluckily, depending on whether you were them or me), neither happened, and the joggers jogged off into the sunrise to post what could have been a REALLY exciting update (read about that adventure HERE).
I waited for the snake to move so I could admire the view over Mirima National park from the top of the range vantage point on the Lookout Walk (no prizes for guessing why it’s called that!), one of four shortish walks showcasing the park’s attractions.
I can’t guarantee the excitement of a sunrise snake stand-off in the sandstone at Mirima, on the outskirts of the main Kununurra township. But you WILL see dramatic sandstone domes and valleys – smaller, but not unlike those of more well known Purnululu (aka Bungle Bungles). So if you don’t have time to trek there, or the bucks for a helicopter flight, Mirima National Park is a cheaper, closer, and more charming alternative.
The top of the range view also overlooks Hidden Valley – and the Hidden Valley Tourist Park who I mention here because they were nice enough to put RedzAustralia at the very top of their TOP 10 Grey Nomad blogs (even thought I’m a RED Nomad)!
En route to discover the Kununurra waterfalls, by the time we’d managed two of the conservation park’s four sites we’d already experienced a grumpy grey-nomad who should have stayed in bed; and a flamboyant four-wheel-driver developing some experimental techniques in what can only loosely be called ‘driving’ (read about that adventure HERE).
Who knows what other weird experiences we might have had if only our car had had enough clearance to visit the Ngamoowalem Conservation Park’s 3rd and 4th localities?
The spectacular setting amid the Livistonia Range means the springs and falls that make up the park run hot during the wet season. There wasn’t much water happening during our dry season visit – but that meant we could explore the rocks up close and admire the cluster of butterflies flitting through the undergrowth.
And wonder why Black Rock Falls was called Black Rock Falls!
It’s a shame we didn’t get to see Middle Spring and Molly Spring, but no matter.
The other visitors to Valentine Spring and Black Rock Falls had provided quite enough excitement for one day.
Besides – don’t they say you should always leave something for next time?
There’s not a lot of point visiting the Ord River Irrigation zone without actually sampling the produce, right?
So we gave it our best shot.
A daily dose of something with mango in it – smoothies, cheesecakes, ice-cream, we weren’t fussy – from somewhere local – we weren’t fussy about that, either! We didn’t even care if they sold other products!
And so we did the rounds of the Zebra Rock Gallery Café; Lovells Gallery, Hoochery Distillery, the Sandalwood Factory and a number of Open Door outlets that sold Kununurra and Ord River Irrigation Scheme fresh produce!
Hard to believe, I know, but it’s not always all about cake
They say you always remember your first time. And the Kununurra Agricultural Show was where I lost it.
My Cane Toad Race virginity, that is! (Read that awesome story HERE!)
The Cane Toad Race fund-raiser for Kununurra Wildlife Rescue topped the bill of weird and wonderful events celebrating rural life – with audience participation encouraged.
If you’ve never seen the Melon Olympics, where participants skate in watermelon shoes to throw honeydews into 44 gallon drums; a lawnmower race; the Kimberley Cowboy Challenge – a farmer’s daily life event multi-tasking race; and the Haystacking Challenge where a hapless volunteer perches atop an ever-growing stack of hay bales just before it topples then this is the place to be.
All accompanied by even more of that killer Kununurra produce!! Frozen chocolate-covered banana, anyone?
Experience all the fabulous fun for yourself at the Kununurra Agricultural Show on Friday 10th & Saturday 11th July, 2020!! It’s the most fun you’ll have for $AUD20 (the 2020 cost of an adult admission).
It’s just over 100 km from Kununurra to Wyndham on the sealed main road, but the back route past Parry’s Lagoon takes you through stunning East Kimberley scenery (and more of those Boab Trees). Stop at the lagoon for a wildlife extravaganza then continue to the small town of Wyndham with some of the highest tides in Australia, and the fantastic Five Rivers Lookout overlooking an incredible landscape. Read more about things to do in Wyndham HERE.
Finding a crocodile in the East Kimberley is what’s generally known as a ‘sure thing’. So take care when you find freshwater (the small ones) and/or saltwater crocodiles (the BIG scary ones) in Lake Argyle, both above and below the dam wall; in the Ord river; in any/all of Wyndham’s five rivers; in Parry’s Lagoon and right next to your campsite in Lily Lagoon. Want more places to find crocodiles in Australia’s Top End? Go HERE!
When you’ve enjoyed yourself to the max in the East Kimberley, max out a little bit more on a Kununurra Kimberley sunset. Sunset from pretty much anywhere will do, but our campsite by the lake gets my vote!
With nothing but the gentle hum of mosquitoes, plopping of crocodiles and chatter (and sometimes snoring!) of the Southern Grey Nomad to disturb you!
Staying in Kununurra (where 26º C is a COLD day) for any length of time puts the careless visitor in serious danger of having a food baby. So it was just as well for us we left, albeit reluctantly, after 10 days!
The good news is that once you’ve seen the sights of Kununurra, there’s the rest of the awesome Kimberley Region to explore (Read my 7 Kimberley Random Adventures HERE)!
Having trouble getting there? Check out the best flights and get your Kununurra adventure off the ground NOW!
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]]>Wondering how you’re EVER going to see as much of Australia as I have? Trust me, travelling OZ is SO worth it! And if you need reasons to do it other than the stunning natural attractions, amazing Aussie experiences and fabulous holiday destinations, take a look at these 25 science-backed health benefits of travel HERE. Here’s HOW to get your[...]
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]]>Wondering how you’re EVER going to see as much of Australia as I have? Trust me, travelling OZ is SO worth it! And if you need reasons to do it other than the stunning natural attractions, amazing Aussie experiences and fabulous holiday destinations, take a look at these 25 science-backed health benefits of travel HERE.
Here’s HOW to get your Aussie travels under way so you can see Australia AND start reaping those health benefits RIGHT NOW!
You CAN see a LOT of Australia by using the simple 3-step program I showed you in Part 1 (Right HERE if you missed it) whenever you have a week (or two) to spare – in ANY month of the year.
Here’s what to do with that free week (or two)
Yep, that’s how it’s done. And Part One gave you some travel teasers for if your week (or two) off fell during January to June. Now here’s a whole new set of travel teasers for July to December!
You’re welcome!
Broome’s vivid red and startling blue colour palette is the perfect antidote to a dreary southern-Aussie winter. Factor in a clutch of tropical attractions like semi-deserted beaches, fresh tropical produce (across a varied multicultural menu) and killer sunsets, and it’s hard to beat as the perfect July destination. The dinosaur footprints, brewery and world’s oldest operating picture gardens with a super-cool scenic loo are just a bonus!
If you like wilder, redder rocks, then the east Kimberley’s Kununurra delivers with red rock domes in Kununurra’s Mirima National Park; the Sleeping Buddha of Lily Lagoon – and a whole mountain range buried under the mega-ultra-massive Lake Argyle, 10 times bigger than Sydney Harbour and full of crocodiles. This dam above the Ord River scheme also delivers a whole range of fresh produce – just perfect for siesta time in the hottest part of the day!
There’s a whole lot more to see and do in the Kimberley outside of Broome and Kununurra – read MORE about the Kimberley HERE!
Outback? On the COAST? You betcha! Shark Bay is where the outback meets the sea with a wild and weathered coastline enclosing warm waters filled with an exciting array of wildlife: think sharks, dugongs, stingrays – and dolphins! The whole bay is a diverse World Heritage area: think Hamelin Pool Stromatolites – oldest known living organisms; Steep Point – westernmost point of mainland OZ; Dirk Hartog Island National Park; and the oldest recorded site of European contact!
Go straight to the top of Opal Mining Town weird and wonderful and check out the fantastically quirky Lightning Ridge, Black Opal capital of the WORLD! If the allure of the Chambers of the Black Hand or the world’s only black opal mining cactus farmers don’t do it for you, then fossick yourself a gem (or ‘find’ a piece of opal in one of the many shops), check out the awesome Outback Art or soak away that stress in a HOT artesian bath!
MORE about Lightning Ridge and other Australia’s Opal Mining HOT Spots HERE
Climbing Bald Rock, Australia’s largest Granite Monolith is just one reason Tenterfield makes a great base for exploring New England, the Northern Rivers and Granite Belt Region, just across the border in Queensland. It’s not just about the stunning National Park and self-drive tour scenery – explore local villages, visit cellar doors and local producers, and discover historic sites – it’s home of Peter Allen, the Boy from OZ. And don’t miss Tenterfield’s famous Federation Pie – it’s quite possibly the best downunder!
MORE about Tenterfield HERE and MORE about Bald Rock HERE
This ancient landscape in the remote South Australian outback is the original time-tunnel where the exposed layers of Brachina Gorge take you back – WAAAAAY back – through millenia of earth’s pre-history . But it’s not just a geologist’s paradise, it’s an adult adventureland of rugged ranges with 4WD tracks to historic mine sites, mountain climbing, hiking, mountain biking and cycling; horse and camel riding; and self-drive tours to some of the best scenery in OZ
MORE about the Flinders Ranges HERE
Like Rocks? Australia is the right place to be! Check out more of Australia’s rocky HOT Spots!
MORE about Australia’s other Rock Stars HERE
The floral equivalent of shooting fish in a barrel, Kalbarri’s flower strewn landscape makes spotting a LOT of Western Australia’s 12,000 wildflower species almost TOO easy. And when the flower hunt is over, you’re spoilt for choice with other natural attractions like the ancient gorges of Kalbarri National Park, the eroded islands and valleys of the Murchison River, and the dramatic sandstone cliffs along a sensational coastline.
Wildflower season in Victoria’s Grampians also makes flower spotting a sure thing. Combine your floral frenzy – over 1000 species – with exploring the rugged grandeur of the ranges – think hikes, mountain climbing, cycling, scenic flights – then indulge in one (or more!) of the region’s foodie HOT spots!
MORE about Grampians Wildflowers HERE
Even if you don’t have time to road-trip the coast between Torquay, just south of Melbourne and Nelson near the South Australian border, just 400 km away, make time to see the highlights. Like what? Well … pig out on the foodie trail; take in the stunning sculpted coastline; detour into the rainforests of the Otway Ranges; hang out on the beach; go lighthouse spotting; visit a village. Actually, just do the whole thing – it can be done in as little as 3 days!
MORE about the Great Ocean Road HERE
A stunning coastline lined with beaches; a tropical blue ocean studded with 74 stunning tropical islands all adjacent to the Great Barrier Reef.
Private beaches, National Parks, historic sites, snorkelling, scuba diving, sailing and fishing to die for.
Yes, the Whitsundays sounds WAY too good to be true – but it really IS this cool!
MORE about the Whitsundays HERE
Catch the Cockle Train – Australia’s oldest public railway; cruise the Lower Lakes and Coorong to the Murray Mouth – end of Australia’s longest river system; climb South Aussie icon The Bluff; and visit one (or more!) of the 100 or so cellar doors just an hour south of Adelaide on the Fleurieu Peninsula. Oh – and there’s a couple of public amenities blocks that made it into Lonely Planet’s book of world’s best scenic loos too!
MORE about the Fleurieu Peninsula HERE
Yes, Sydney’s biggest attractions are SUCH a cliché! But that doesn’t mean they’re not worth visiting! SO … cruise the harbour, climb the bridge, see something at the Opera House, visit Taronga Park zoo, wander the Botanic Gardens, catch the ferry to Manly, check out Darling Harbour, go shopping, visit museums and galleries, then find somewhere cool to eat. See? I told you it’d be fun!
Well, that’s how to get started on seeing OZ! Of course you can visit all these regions at other times of the year – the monthly guides are just suggestions. And when you’re done with these I bet you’ll find that there’s a whole lot more on your Aussie travel bucket list.
That’s why I’m still travelling Australia
Disclosure: This post contains a sponsored link for cheap flights
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]]>I’d be able to fund my Aussie travel ’til the end of time if I had a buck for every time I’ve heard someone say ‘I wish I could see as much of Australia as you have’. ‘But you CAN,’ I generally reply. Yes, I get that slow travelling to obscure parts of OZ in an el cheapo 1983 camper[...]
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]]>I’d be able to fund my Aussie travel ’til the end of time if I had a buck for every time I’ve heard someone say ‘I wish I could see as much of Australia as you have’.
‘But you CAN,’ I generally reply.
Yes, I get that slow travelling to obscure parts of OZ in an el cheapo 1983 camper trailer like I do these days isn’t for everyone. But what I DON’T get is why people think that’s the only way to do it. Or that it’s the only way I’VE done it!
So I stick to my original reply.
You CAN.
Yes, that’s right. You CAN see a LOT of Australia. And you don’t need an expensive rig, a massive overdraft or a year off work to do it.
All you need is a week (or two) and my easy-as-pie 3-step plan to see Australia month by month!
Then next time you’ve got a week (or two) off, do it all again.
Little by little is how I saw a LOT of Australia before I started the slow travel/el cheapo camper trailer thing.
And here’s where you get lucky.
Because my See Australia Month-by-Month Travel Teasers are my HOT picks for some COOL places to go whatever time of year you get a break. Look and see which Travel Teasers take your fancy – then take the links for a LOT more information!
You CAN get started on seeing Australia – do it right here with Part 1: January to June!
Beat the summer heat, climb a ‘Seven Summits’ peak AND visit Australia’s highest public loo! All this and more makes Kosciuszko National Park the coolest summer holiday destination in OZ – you don’t need snow to explore the Alpine Region in summer where the average maximum temperature is around 22°C!
And what better way to start the year than to see Australia from its highest point?
But if summer isn’t summer for you without a beach or two or 22, you’ll find a LOT more than that on the New South Wales North Coast.
If surfing/backpacker mecca Byron Bay is too crowded, head south to Ballina for the same great beaches and stunning coastline – and when you’re sick of all that sand, head for the hinterland with hippy-inspired markets, produce and pristine rainforests.
See out summer’s hottest month in Australia’s coolest state. Tasmania puts the ‘wild’ back into ‘wilderness’ with a side order of World Heritage convict sites, an extravaganza of natural produce and (arguably) Australia’s best art museum!
BUT … don’t make the mistake of thinking you can see it all in a week – pick two or three highlights and put the rest back on the list for next time!
Or find one of the mainland’s coolest coastal hot spots where a wild and rugged coastline scattered with brilliant beaches and jewel-like lakes meets an intriguing blend of volcanoes, caves and sink holes.
Tired of coastal activities like swimming, fishing and checking out lighthouses? No problem! Head inland for the caves, lakes and hiking trails, then wrap it up with some of the finest seafood in OZ!
How DO you decide which tropical island paradise to pick??
If you’re up for cruises to the world’s highest volcanic stack or round the island; hiking some of Australia’s most scenic trails; snorkelling Australia’s southernmost tropical reef; or cycling to a semi-deserted beach for the day, then you’re probably going to love Lord Howe Island.
But if a unique culture with its own language and delightful local cuisine with a fascinating background of World Heritage listed historic sites all laid out on a spectacularly scenic Pacific Island location interests you more, then you’ll probably love Norfolk Island.
But if you can’t decide then go for both! And no, the Island tourism boards are NOT paying me!!
Unfortunately.
Sweeping panoramas to Queensland’s highest mountain, magnificent rainforests, volcanic lakes and more waterfalls than you can poke a stick at are a good start.
But add fantastic local produce, charming small towns, bakeries, cafes and markets to the mix and there’s enough things to do and see without even thinking about Cairns, only an hour or so away!
On the western edge of the Victorian High Country, spend your days climbing Mt Buffalo’s Horn, touring its historic chalet, picnicking by its lakes or hiking its many walks before returning to the stunning autumn colours AND the fine collection of eateries in Bright.
It’s a great base from which to explore other parts of the Victorian Alpine Region – but don’t forget your winter woollies!
Just an hour west of the Gold Coast and an hour south-west of Brisbane and you’re in the Scenic Rim wonderland – an amazing array of natural attractions scattered with interesting villages and eateries surrounded by staggering views. So if you’re up for a holiday involving action, adventure, relaxation, fresh produce, fishing, hiking or sightseeing, then this is the place for you!
From its headwaters in the Australian Alps, the Murray River flows for 2500 km (1560 miles) through three states.
Don’t have time to explore the whole thing? Pick out some highlights like the historic paddlesteamers at the port of Echuca (Vic); where the Darling meets the Murray to form Australia’s largest river system at Wentworth (NSW); or the Murray Mouth where the river meets the Great Southern Ocean at Goolwa (SA).
Australia’s northernmost – and therefore hottest – capital city is an unusual blend of diverse cultures, deadly wildlife and lush tropical scenery. But if it’s hotter, that means a LOT more reasons to relax with a drink, right?!
Take a sightseeing break for the Darwin Museum, World War II memorabilia, a cruise on the harbour, the Mindil Beach markets and a whole lot of fine regional produce involving seafood. And see Australia’s largest predators up REAL close on a Jumping Crocs Cruise!
If you haven’t been to Uluru, Kata Tjuta (the Olgas) or Kings Canyon, June is the time to do it! But when you’re done with those Big Ticket items, head back to Alice Springs for the Alice Springs Desert Park, Standley Chasm and Olive Pink Botanic Gardens, then head out to the spectacular gorges of the East and West MacDonnell Ranges, around the Mereenie loop, south to Rainbow Valley or along the Larapinta Trail.
If you’ve got the time, take a Road Trip from Adelaide to Darwin and see it all in one go!
Well, that’s how to see Australia month by month for the first six months of the year! Want the last half of the year? Click HERE for Part Two: July to December for more HOT Aussie Travel Teasers!
PS – Here’s a hint about where to go in the second half of the year!!
Disclosure: This post contains a sponsored link for cheap flights
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]]>Our Corner Country Adventure Begins! Taking a road trip to ANY hottest place anywhere just SO isn’t on my travel bucket list. But Tibooburra, aka the hottest place in New South Wales, was closest town to the ONLY place in the world where I could stand in three Australian states – South Australia, Queensland and New South Wales – all at[...]
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]]>Taking a road trip to ANY hottest place anywhere just SO isn’t on my travel bucket list.
But Tibooburra, aka the hottest place in New South Wales, was closest town to the ONLY place in the world where I could stand in three Australian states – South Australia, Queensland and New South Wales – all at the same time!**
Anyway, it was winter – or what passes for winter downunder – so the heat thing wouldn’t be a problem. We’d leave the camper trailer behind while we sussed out the rugged roads. And I was getting itchy feet after being home for a couple of months. So what the heck.
‘Let’s go,’ I told Pilchard.
Just as well.
Or I’d have missed out BIG time …
… On the thrill of having a tyre gutted by a totally new and unexpected object. On being marooned in the Outback. And on standing in 3 States all at once!!
Yes, I have a low amusement threshhold. AND I’m getting ahead of myself …
Chances are, anyone heading north on the Silver City Highway from Broken Hill en route to Innamincka, Birdsville, Coopers Creek or the Diamantina chances has passed through, or even stayed overnight in Tibooburra.
But was Tibooburra a road-trip destination in itself?
We had a week to spare, and were about to discover exactly what to see and do in Corner Country – the remote and rugged north-west corner of New South Wales!
Heading north after leaving Broken Hill – aka the Silver City – the road to Tibooburra – aka the Silver City Highway – winds through the Barrier Ranges, including 30+ km of extensive roadworks* just out of Broken Hill where bitumen was being laid. Until you pass through Fowlers Gap and suddenly it doesn’t.
It’s a great place to play ‘spot the emu’.
Half-way is the Packsaddle Roadhouse, with the only fuel, food and accommodation en route – perfect for travellers stranded by road closures after heavy rain. Over lunch and a trip to the Scenic Loo, we watched the Packsaddle Cat score his (or maybe her) body weight in table scraps by shameless begging in the outdoor dining area.
About 50 km further north we stopped to watch the wildlife on Cobham Lake, an Outback oasis overlooked by the lonely grave of an Eliza Kennedy with an odd epitaph ‘For charity covereth a multitude of sins’.
If we’d brought the camper trailer, this spot would have been the end of the journey for the day because camping on the shores of the lake would’ve been AMAZING!
Between Packsaddle and Tibooburra, the stretches of gravel road became longer and more frequent. You’d have to be MAD to road-trip these roads without investing in some kind of roadside automobile assistance! IMHO!!
300 km (180 miles) and 4 hours after leaving Broken Hill, we arrived in Tibooburra.
And how it got its name from an Aboriginal word meaning ‘heap of rocks’ or why it was once known as ‘The Granites’ really ISN’T one of life’s great mysteries!
For an almost-ghost-town, there’s a lot going on in Milparinka with its historic working pub and heritage precinct just 40 km (24 miles) from Tibooburra.
Cars came and went on the dirt tracks, aka ‘roads’. The family running the historic Albert Hotel served coffee, drinks and meals. And the volunteers who keep Milparinka’s restored buildings, museums and open air displays open from March to October dispensed information, advice and directions.
This, a campground, and best of all – a scenic public loo – are what’s left of Milparinka after the Albert Goldfields’ gold ran out back during the Depression. There wasn’t enough remaining business to support both towns, so although Milparinka had the water, Tibooburra got the trade.
From Milparinka, we headed north-west over a bizarre moonscape of albino gibbers, a fancy name for the milky quartz rocks all over the ground and the closest we’d get to seeing snow in this Aussie winter! Following the banks of Preservation Creek shaded by massive River Red Gums we finally came to Depot Glen, a string of the only permanent waterholes in the district.
Famous Aussie explorer Captain Charles Sturt, on an expedition hoping to discover the mythical waterways of Central Australia, waited out a dry spell here, from January, hottest time of the year, to June when rains finally fell.
So confident were they of finding an inland sea, they’d brought a boat and a couple of sailors across the same arid Outback country we’d followed since leaving Broken Hill. Instead of the waterways they expected, the men spent 6 months stranded by drought building a cairn of rocks several kilometres away on Mt Poole, named for the only expedition member to die at Depot Glen.
Too gutless to attack the pile of ankle-turning gibbers aka Mt Poole, we didn’t reach the summit. But we climbed high enough to look out over the unforgiving, relentlessly gibber-laden plains stretching to the horizon, and imagine the hardships suffered by this lonely band.
Marooned #1: 4 mm (0.015 inches) of rain isn’t all that much, really. But after a wet winter, this overnight downpour was enough to officially close ALL roads entering and leaving Tibooburra.
Marooned #2: We couldn’t have taken a drive anyway. After a day following the explorers along rough, rugged gibber trails we had a flat! We’d never been brought to a standstill by a small piece of bone before – but it’s apparently the most common cause of flat tyres in these parts.
That left us with only one option that day – exploring Tibooburra on foot!
Whether it’s rain, a piece of bone or something else making you take a Tibooburra break, there’s a lot to see and do in and a short distance around the township.
Here’s a few suggestions:
Wild, remote and rugged, Sturt National Park is 340,000 hectares of sandhills; gibber plains; jump-ups and mesas; flood plains; gorges; creeks; and what remains of some of the pastoral properties in the area.
The Silver City Highway runs right through the park but drive the loop trails just out of Tibooburra for the best bits. Explore the old pastoral properties, look out over the flood plains and climb Mt Wood (4 km return) on the 100 km (~60 mile) Gorge Loop Trail. Or drive through a spectacular eroded landscape with a magnificent lookout, or walk to the Jump-ups (3.5 km return) on the Jump–up Loop Trail.
Or if you’re in a 4WD, take the imaginatively named Middle Road through the varied landscape in the middle of the park – an alternative route to Cameron Corner.
Remember those interpretive brochures you picked up from the National Parks office in Tibooburra? This is where they’ll come in VERY handy!
And check the road conditions before you leave.
‘Where’s the road?’ Pilchard shouted as we followed the track down an incline and onto a sea of red clay. Half way to Cameron Corner, it could’ve been a nasty Marooned #3 if the Waka Claypan had still been a clay-slick after the rain!
Luckily, a couple of days of fine, warm weather had dried out the road, and 140 km (84 miles) west of Tibooburra the friendly staff at the iconic Cameron Corner Roadhouse efficiently dealt with a steady stream of road-trippers looking for photos, souvenirs, drinks, meals and fuel.
It’s hungry work standing in 3 states at once
If we’d had the camper trailer, we SO would have stayed in the Cameron Corner Campground for a round of golf on the nine hole Tri-State golf course – with three holes in each of South Australia, New South Wales and Queensland.
And if we’d had the camper trailer, we’d have headed to Queensland or South Australia instead of back through the dingo fence into New South Wales where we took the Middle Road back to Tibooburra through Sturt National Park.
But, for now, we’d answered that all-important question. Yes, Tibooburra IS a worthy destination in its own right!!
The next day we headed back down the Silver City Highway to Broken Hill.
And not a moment too soon.
Because that night 56 mm (2.2 inches) of rain fell in Tibooburra!
Even if you’re just passing through Tibooburra to Queensland, South Australia or other parts of New South Wales, why not make some of these Corner Country attractions and drives part of your road trip? Or tie your trip in with an event like the Packsaddle Gymkhana, the Tibooburra Festival, the Milparinka Gymkhana and the Tibooburra Rodeo for an even more awesome Outback experience!
Fast Facts:
WHERE:
PLEASE CHECK ROAD CONDITIONS BEFORE YOU TRAVEL!
STAY:
We stayed at the Granites Motel & Caravan Park in Tibooburra.
EAT:
* On our trip in August 2016. Check road conditions before you leave.
** Poeppels Corner, where Western Australia, South Australia and the Northern Territory meet is 2 States + 1 Territory!
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]]>Timber Creek sure didn’t look like the home of Australia’s wildest river OR the crocodile capital of OZ as we pulled in after a punishing hour – and about 90 kilometres – on the road. I hadn’t yet discovered the killer Scenic Loo but even if I had, Timber Creek wouldn’t have looked like dunny heaven either. I checked my[...]
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]]>Timber Creek sure didn’t look like the home of Australia’s wildest river OR the crocodile capital of OZ as we pulled in after a punishing hour – and about 90 kilometres – on the road. I hadn’t yet discovered the killer Scenic Loo but even if I had, Timber Creek wouldn’t have looked like dunny heaven either.
I checked my watch. Only 10:30 am and we were done with the driving for the day.
Damn! How did I turn into a Grey Nomad* without noticing?!
The Victoria River – Australia’s WILDEST – is over 200 km (~120 miles) of sensational scenery, rugged ranges and wall to wall crocodiles. And as well as spectacular natural attractions, the region has an intriguing blend of Indigenous, Colonial and Military history. We’d seen part of the area the day before at the Victoria River Roadhouse.
So the bonus of arriving so early meant loads of time to explore the rest.
Just as well, because there’s a helluva lot to see!
Pilchard and I saw more crocodiles in two days than in all our previous crocodile sightings combined. And when I add all the crocs we’ve seen since then? This town’s still WAY out in front.
Crocodiles don’t actually go to heaven – they just head north to Timber Creek!
Because if you’re a crocodile, what’s NOT to love about Timber Creek?
If you’re a freshie**, hang out in the creek behind the caravan park and get fed by a gaggle of tourists EVERY NIGHT!
And if you’re a saltie*** the Victoria River is a croc-heaven takeaway with cattle from the stations, wallabies and other wildlife feeding along the banks, and boatloads of barramundi fisherfolk who make catching a big one for dinner REALLY easy!
PLEASE NOTE: Practice crocodile safety on and near waterways. All my crocodile photos were taken from a croc-proof boat and pontoon on the Victoria River Crocodile Cruise!
There’s something about eating a sensational array of snacks and enjoying a drink while watching a superb sunset sink into a crocodile-infested river. Something that makes you want to – well, YOU know!
So where DO you go when nature calls and you’re surrounded by crocodiles on Australia’s wildest river? To one of Australia’s most scenic and unusual toilets, of course!
Yes, it’s in MY BOOK (click right HERE to got there)!
The pontoon potty is just one (VERY good) reason to take the Victoria River Crocodile Cruise. It’s a 3 hour 70 kilometre journey into the heart of the Top End with local guide Neville Fogarty in his purpose built croc proof boat – the Fleetwing – to a pontoon perfectly positioned to showcase the sights.
And see as many crocodiles as you’re likely to see anywhere outside a crocodile farm!
(BONUS EXTRA: Read about Cruising with Crocodiles on Australia’s WILDEST River HERE)
The Crocodile cruise isn’t just about the crocs. Before we get anywhere near the river, we’ve had a mini-town tour, fascinating history lesson, and a pit stop at the local museum. But the croc cruise gets back after sunset, so we stay another day to see what we’ve missed.
I didn’t know anything about how to take fingerprints correctly until I entered the heritage listed Police Station Museum, also home to other quirky memorabilia like a Furphy; and a kangaroo hide bed where Neville Fogarty (croc tour man) apparently once slept!
But reminders of more shameful past episodes are in the shackle and chain for Aboriginal prisoners still attached to a tree, and the holding cell in the front yard.
And who knew about the Nackeroos, ‘Bush Commandos’ with a platoon stationed at Timber Creek after the Top End was bombed by the Japanese during World War Two? I certainly didn’t, but the escarpment memorial tells of the hardships faced in defending Australia’s coastline in this wild and remote area, and the great respect for the skills of the local Aboriginal people working with and as part of the Nackeroos.
But the Nackeroos weren’t the last of the military activity in the area …
If you’ve seen the super-highway-like Bridge to Nowhere spanning the Victoria River you’re probably questioning my judgement about recommending it as a Timber Creek attraction.
Especially if I say the bridge was a highlight of our visit!
The bridge doesn’t REALLY go to nowhere – it just goes to nowhere the average person is allowed to go ie the Bradshaw Field Training Area. If in any doubt about entering, there’s a few handy hints that’ll make your unwelcomeness perfectly clear.
Like the massive gate with padlocks and spikes.
And the four separate signs with different messages that make even a croc seem friendly.
Cool, huh?!
But quite apart from anything else, the bridge – across which you’re quite welcome to walk – is one of the best places from which to appreciate the grandeur of the Victoria River!
When I first saw the Gregory Tree, it was overlooking a crocodile from high on the banks of the Victoria River.
I was checking out the same crocodile from just above the waterline on the croc-proof cruiser. I’m not sure who had the best view, but there were no crocs in sight when I saw the tree up close the next day.
It’s just part of the 13000² km Gregory National Park, named for explorer Augustus Charles Gregory, whose expedition passed through in the mid 1800’s. And although graffitti artist Gregory left the travel dates inscribed on the tree, it’s considered ‘historic’, rather than vandalism! There’s nothing to say how the local Ngaringman Aboriginal people felt about Gregory defacing the tree – it’s also registered as a sacred site.
We explored the eastern section of the park the day before from the Victoria River Roadhouse, 90 km east. Don’t miss the fantastic Joe Creek walk through Livistona Palms, and the amazing view from the Escarpment Lookout.
The western section extends quite a long way south of Timber Creek, with 4WD tracks to the old station homestead, gorges campgrounds and fishing spots. The tracks even join up with the Buntine Highway, an alternative route into Western Australia – which isn’t that far away from Timber Creek!
Tragically, the only part of the western section I saw was the Gregory Tree – but that’s what ‘next time’ is for, right?
(BONUS Extra: Read about the Joe Creek Walk and Escarpment Lookout HERE!)
Timber Creek may be small but has a LOT of attractions that make it a TOP Aussie Town!. So if you’re thinking of giving it a miss, think again and get there early – because sometimes acting like a grey nomad pays off!
Where: Timber Creek is ~285 km west of Katherine; 90 km west of the Victoria River Roadhouse; 225 km east of Kununurra on the Victoria Highway.
When to Go: Temperatures are lower with less humidity during the Dry season from June to November. 4WD tracks and other attractions are closed during the Wet Season when rains commence around December and re-open around May depending on the amount of rain.
Where to Stay: We stayed at the Circle F Caravan Park attached to Fogarty’s Store and the Timber Creek Hotel, also with cabins and motel accomodation. The Big Horse campground is near the boat ramp. Gregory National Park has several campgrounds.
What’s There: Timber Creek facilities include accommodation, fuel, food, banking, vehicle repairs, emergency medical services and an airstrip.
*In our experience of travelling with the Southern Grey Nomad, we’ve observed that they’re often at their destination by lunch time. The rest of the day is spent setting up and preparing for happy hour! That’s not a criticism – it’s just the way it is – but such a short travel time meant that maybe, just MAYBE we were becoming more like them :-O
** Freshies = Freshwater crocodiles, the smaller, less aggressive Crocodylus johnstoni
*** Salties = Saltwater crocodiles (aka estuarine crocodiles), the much larger, VERY much more aggressive Crocodylus porosus
Previous Post: World Toilet Day: Red’s TOP 10 Scenic Aussie Loos
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]]>The Limestone Coast is WAY too big for one blog post – that’s why you’ll find Part One of my Limestone Coast Beginners Guide HERE! In Part One, there’s 6 SUPER cool natural Limestone Coast attractions close to Mount Gambier – best place for the amazing volcanic activity that helped make the region what it is today! In Part Two[...]
The post The Ultimate Beginners Guide to Limestone Coast Attractions – Part Two! appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.
]]>The Limestone Coast is WAY too big for one blog post – that’s why you’ll find Part One of my Limestone Coast Beginners Guide HERE!
In Part One, there’s 6 SUPER cool natural Limestone Coast attractions close to Mount Gambier – best place for the amazing volcanic activity that helped make the region what it is today!
In Part Two (below) I’ve got 6 RED HOT Limestone Coast things to do along the coast, in the Southern Ports Highway towns Beachport and Robe, and further south in the Southern Rock Lobster capital and largest lobster fleet of Australia – Port MacDonnell, my personal favourite!
So if you’re ready for wild and rugged coastline; amazing sunsets; heritage trails and hikes; endless deserted beaches; bizarre rock formations; scenic drives; and some AWESOME lighthouses, you’ve come to the right spot!
Just sit back, relax and discover 6 MORE wonderful Limestone Coast attractions!
Cape Northumberland‘s rugged rocks and sensational scenery, with nothing between you and Antarctica except 5700 km (that’s a LOT of miles!) of Great Southern Ocean is as far south as is possible in South Australia!
By day, explore the Heritage and Nature Park for eroded rocks in fantastic shapes; magnificent coastal scenery north to Cape Douglas and south to Port MacDonnell; and a short walk to the site of the old lighthouse – it’s REALLY obvious why it was moved back up behind the point!
The shape of the Cape is perfect for watching sunrise (so they tell me), but I caught a killer sunset over the sea instead! After sunset, wait on the viewing platform until it’s dark for the Little Penguins (Eudyptula Minor) – only penguin to breed in Australia – to come home from eating their body weight in fish.
You’ll even get to see them if you’re smart enough to bring a torch or spotlight that actually works – like we didn’t!!
Cape Northumberland is a great place to explore – take the drive north along the coast to Finger Point for beaches, surf breaks, part of the Admella Shipwreck Trail (see below) and a lookout back to Mount Gambier. There’s even a signboard with the bizarre story of how this rugged part of the coastline became a firing range!
There’s a LOT of shipwreck sites along the Limestone coast so it’s no wonder there’s also a high concentration of lighthouses!
Start at Cape Northumberland (see #1). One of the noticeboards tells the tragic tale of Ben Germein, Cape Northumberland’s first Lighthouse Keeper, and don’t miss the walking trail I mentioned above!
A little further north, the Cape Banks (named for botanist Joseph Banks) Lighthouse near Carpenter Rocks at the southern end of Canunda National Park is such a toxic shade of orange it hurt my eyes. It’s also part of the Admella Discovery Trail (see below) and the coastal scenery is stunning.
Then it’s 45 minutes or so to Beachport at the northern end of Rivoli Bay – walk up to the lighthouse overlooking Cape Martin and Penguin Island or view it from several vantage points along the Bowman Scenic Drive (see below).
Robe, about half an hour further north on Guichen Bay, has a VERY modern lighthouse on a VERY rugged stretch of coast with another 30 shipwrecks. But it’s overshadowed somewhat by the VERY distinctive Cape Dombey Obelisk! The Obelisk was used to store rockets – essential for getting life lines to ships wrecked in the bay.
Head north and go right past the Cape Jaffa turnoff, because the Cape Jaffa Lighthouse is now at Kingston SE! It’s a distinctive and decorative little lighthouse on the esplanade amidst the houses and holiday shacks and it’s open during school holidays!
The next lighthouse is 183 km further north at Point Malcolm, near Narrung on the cusp of Lake Albert and Lake Alexandrina. Technically, it’s not on the Limestone Coast, but it IS the Southern Hemisphere’s only inland lighthouse!
(BONUS: Read more about the Narrung lighthouse and other notable South Australian Lighthouses HERE!)
The Limestone coast is wild and rugged! A walk in high winds with lashings of rain really adds to the atmosphere, the coast is STILL wild and rugged even when it’s fine! But there’s more than rugged rocks to see along the coast and Robe has one of the BEST selections of walks.
There’s an excellent hiking trail from the Breakwater to the Obelisk at Cape Dombey, then along the cliffs – there’s the lighthouse, water-sculpted rocks out to sea, the Blowhole and the old Gaol Ruins.
From the Robe marina, follow the coast track past Town Beach and along the cliffs to Fox’s Beach and the Outlet. Or take a walk out the back of Robe to Beacon Hill Lookout for a panoramic view over the town.
For a change of pace, head out of town to Little Dip Conservation Park and take a walk all the way around Freshwater Lake, with different woodland habitats and beautiful spring wildflowers. And snakes … even though I didn’t see any on this trip
Follow the Admella Discovery Trail‘s 21 markers that tell the sad story of the SS Admella, wrecked off Carpenter Rocks in 1859 with 89 deaths. But it’s not just a tale of South Australia’s worst maritime disaster, the 130 km (~80 miles) self-drive tour is a great way to discover lots of Limestone Coast attractions!
For a cool coast experience without the history lesson, take the Bowman Scenic Drive from Beachport. What’s NOT to love about this awesome drive with lookouts, surf and fishing beaches, blowholes, rock formations and the Pool of Siloam – 7 times saltier than the sea?
PS There’s a cool Scenic Loo there too!!
It’s about 130 km (~80 miles) from one end of the Coorong to the other – making it Australia’s longest, thinnest National Park! If you’re travelling to or from Adelaide, leave enough time to stop and take a look because it’s one of the more unusual Limestone Coast attractions, or make an early start if you’re planning a day trip!
The string of salt lakes separated from the ocean by the massive dunes of the Younghusband Peninsula is formed by the Murray-Darling – Australia’s biggest river system – as it flows into Lakes Alexandrina and Albert before reaching the sea up the coast at Goolwa.
The Princes Highway runs alongside the Coorong between Kingston SE and Meningie at the northern end. Other than the natural attractions there’s the Heart of the Coorong Roadhouse at Salt Creek where signs and leftover machinery mark Australia’s first oil exploration site with some interesting facts about the area. Take the walk from the roadhouse, or drive the coastal loop for more historic remains and to see the waterways and dunes up close.
Drive through to the sea from 42 mile crossing – walk the last part if you’re not in a 4WD – or via a couple of other 4WD only crossing points. Take the track in to Jack Point to see one of Australia’s largest Pelican breeding grounds. Find a quiet spot for fishing – Coorong Mullet is a South Australian delicacy – but if you’re out of luck, head back to the Roadhouse for a Coorong Mullet burger!
(BONUS: Read about the Little Loo the Government Forgot at Salt Creek HERE!)
Limestone Coast attractions include so many beaches choosing just one could be tricky! So visit a few from my selected favourites – or discover your own!
For deserted beaches choose anywhere between the amazing stretch of deserted beach behind the coast car park at Piccaninnie Ponds (see Part 1), the collection of holiday shacks and a Scenic Loo at another long stretch of deserted beach at Brown’s Bay, the Port MacDonnell safe swimming beach protected by the breakwater, and several surfing and swimming beaches en route to Finger Point north of Cape Northumberland.
For wild and windswept, try anything in Canunda National Park (see Part 1) north of Carpenter Rocks, or play it safe at Southend‘s spectacular protected swimming beach where the national park ends.
For a dash of danger, head to the other end of Rivoli Bay, where Beachport’s Bowman Scenic Drive beaches have jagged rocks and undertows – but are perfect for fishing, especially at the Salmon Hole!
For a popular holiday spot, take the coast road from Beachport and Robe and stop at Nora Creina beach. Further north, Kingston SE‘s beaches on Lacepede Bay are perfect for swimming and fishing, and for a cool beach 4WD experience, head 20 km north of Kingston for a LONG stretch of beach at the Granites, a random collection of boulders!
There are a LOT more Limestone Coast Attractions – like wineries; parks and reserves; historic buildings and museums; bird- and wildlife watching; and dining experiences – but we’re out of time! And that’s the fun of exploring, anyway – visit my 12 Limestone Coast attractions and I’ll guarantee you’ll discover more regional delights that’ll make it even more special for YOU!
WHERE: South East South Australia, from Meningie and the Coorong National Park at its northern tip to Port MacDonnell in the south. Mount Gambier is the largest centre.
HOW to get there: Self-drive from Adelaide to Mount Gambier (~450 km); or Melbourne to Mount Gambier (~450-550 km) – distances vary depending on route taken. Coach from Adelaide or Melbourne. Fly from Adelaide or Melbourne. Hire cars available.
WHEN: All year round. Average maximum temperatures range from 14°C in winter to 30°C in summer.
WHERE to stay: There’s a range of accommodation throughout the Limestone Coast – campgrounds, caravan parks, motels, apartments, B&Bs etc. We stayed in Mount Gambier, Port MacDonnell and Robe which were central to the attractions we wanted to see.
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]]>Wild rocky coastline littered with lighthouses and shipwrecks; dormant volcanoes, jewel-like caves and craters; oddly coloured lakes, mysterious pools and deep sinkholes; long, deserted beaches full of fishing spots, surf breaks and secluded bays; spectacular coastal scenery and the Southern Rock Lobster Capital of Australia – if not, the WORLD! And not many travellers even know it’s there! It’s South[...]
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]]>Wild rocky coastline littered with lighthouses and shipwrecks; dormant volcanoes, jewel-like caves and craters; oddly coloured lakes, mysterious pools and deep sinkholes; long, deserted beaches full of fishing spots, surf breaks and secluded bays; spectacular coastal scenery and the Southern Rock Lobster Capital of Australia – if not, the WORLD!
And not many travellers even know it’s there!
It’s South Australia’s SUPER Cool Limestone Coast and it’s a nature-lovers paradise; an unspoilt scenic sensation and an awesome outdoor adventureland.
It’s so cool, it’s HOT!
But with so much to see and do, how does a Limestone Coast beginner know where to start?
Take my two-part beginners guide and I’ll show enough RED HOT Limestone Coast things to do that’ll keep you busy for at least a week.
In Part One (just keep on reading below) I’ll show you 6 amazing things to do mostly around Mount Gambier and the southern end of the Limestone Coast (see the fast facts at the end of the post). And in Part Two (take the link below!) we’ll see more of the coast and head further north.
But for now relax, grab a drink and discover some awesome Limestone Coast things to do!
The hardest part of going underground on the Limestone Coast is choosing which of its 800 cool caves to explore first! They’re all part of the Kanawinka Geopark – the remnants of volcanic activity in the dim, distant past – at least I hope so!
Not all the caves are accessible though, so here are FOUR (entry fees apply) to get you started!
Take a 45 minute guided tour of the Engelbrecht Cave system right underneath Mount Gambier – if you do, then tell me what it’s like! I didn’t have time to take the tour myself on this visit!
Then head north along the Princes Highway towards Millicent for a self-guided tour of the Tantanoola Cave and its spectacular formations
If I hadn’t already seen the awesome Marsupial Lion at the World Heritage listed Naracoorte Caves on a guided tour – which included a trip to the Bat Cave – from Wonambi Fossil Centre just out of Naracoorte, it would have been first on my list.
But instead, I crossed the border into Victoria to take a 45 minute tour 14 metres underground into the fantastic
otherworldly splendour of the Princess Margaret Rose Cave, named for Princess Margaret by a woman born on the same day! There’s a superb range of veil and wedding cake formations, stalactites, stalagmites, helictites – and even a newish stalagmite the same age as me!
But I’ll leave you to visit the caves yourself if you want to find out how old it is – and I am!
Above ground, the Lower Glenelg National Park surrounding the cave complex is pretty awesome too with a picnic and campground, walks and a lookout over the Glenelg River.
For a great day out, take a return 3½ hour cruise up the river from Nelson to the cave for the tour (PS – there’s a LOT to do at Nelson, too)!
(BONUS: Read about my Naracoorte Caves adventure HERE!)
This killer cave collection has something for everyone! That’s if you’re not claustrophobic, afraid of dark, enclosed spaces or bats, or full of pointless fears about that unsupported roof right above you crashing down!!
Ever wondered if the roof of a cave could ever collapse? Check out EXACTLY what happens at FOUR of the Limestone Coast’s biggest Sinkholes (all with FREE entry)!
Every night, the FREE sound and light show in Mount Gambier’s Cave Garden fires up the caverns as well as giving the indigenous history of the area – it’s an awesome view from the lookouts suspended high above the sinkhole.
By day, it’s good, but not as impressive as the Umpherston Sinkhole Gardens, a magical below-ground-level open-air experience where the rugged limestone walls are hidden behind a beautiful garden.
But sinkholes are more impressive in the wild – if you can find Caroline Sinkhole in Penambol Conservation Park just out of Mt Gambier, you’ll see what these massive circular depressions actually look like in their natural state. The above-ground walking trail from the car park through the forest is pretty too!
It’s even harder to find Hells Hole – apparently the sign keeps getting pinched! I get that – it’d probably look cool at the front gate or in the garden!! Hells Hole is at the end of a pleasant walk through the pine forest, and a scary suspended walkway 30 metres above the water level, with a sign telling (omigod-you’ve-got-to-be-kidding) divers to close the gate behind them!
I SO didn’t bother getting a diving permit
A much smaller (but WAY more picturesque) version of the sinkholes are TWO limestone karst wetlands full of clear water freshly filtered through the limestone from the aquifer beneath.
The three ponds connected by Eight Mile Creek (and a walking track) that make up the Ewens Ponds Conservation Park are generally open for swimming, snorkelling and diving. It’s a pretty spot even without going in the water!
Permits are required for cave diving in the 110 metre deep ponds in the Piccaninnie Ponds Conservation Park, but the walking track through the coastal scrub, then along a magnificent stretch of beach to the Outlet Creek and boardwalk is a varied and interesting hike.
It’s pretty hard to miss Mount Gambier’s famous four Crater Lakes (all with FREE activities) – especially from the vantage point of Centenary Tower (see last photo), a steep climb along the network of mountain bike and walking trails, lookouts and rest areas linking the Lakes to the Mount’s highest point.
It’s also got excellent views over Mount Gambier, South Australia’s 2nd largest city, and over to Mount Schank (see #6 below), an extinct volcano on the Kanawinka Geotrail, Australia’s biggest volcanic province. Then it’s all downhill – praise be!
The Leg of Mutton Lake was dry on our visit – but there’s a walking trail around it! In autumn, the deciduous trees once part of a nursery on the site make a fine display of colour.
Browne’s Lake was also dry on our visit, but can be seen from the road through the lake complex.
Have a picnic down at Valley Lake (yes, it’s down in the valley at the bottom of the crater) and take a walk through the Valley Lake Conservation Park. On our walk, we saw koalas, kangaroos, lizards, Cape Barren Geese, manic Blue Wrens – but thankfully no snakes! Barbecues and boat ramps make it easy to spend the whole day here.
The famous Blue Lake reaches its bluest blue from November to March – see it up close on an Aquifer tour (fees apply) down the old well shaft to the water level, or just admire it from the walk around the rim.
But for an even closer look at that famous blue water take a drive out along the Port MacDonnell road to Little Blue Lake. It’s a micro-mini version of its bigger, more famous buddy, but it’s actually got a swimming platform and rails so you can take a dip! For FREE!
Take a 4WD drive along Canunda National Park‘s 40 km of rugged coastline between Southend and Carpenter Rocks and discover rocky cliffs, surfing breaks, sandstone formations, rock stacks beaches, fishing spots, massive dunes and camping spots.
No 4WD? No problem! Drive to Cape Buffon at the northern end of the park for walking tracks, lookout points and the beautiful beaches and bays of Southend. 2WD roads from Millicent and Carpenter Rocks give access to other areas of the park, including the toxic orange Cape Banks Lighthouse!
Yes, with FREE entry, this is one of the best places to see exactly why this stretch of the Limestone Coast is also known as the Shipwreck Coast!
Mount Schank and Mount Gambier (the mountain, not the city) were Australia’s most recent eruptions – recently enough to be recorded in the area’s Indigenous history. It’s also re-enacted on the big screen (for FREE) every day at the Main Corner Dress Circle in Mount Gambier (the city, not the mountain).
But without any eruptions in a VERY long time, Mount Schank is now considered extinct. Let’s hope it stays that way!!
It’s also been a VERY long time since I climbed Mount Schank, about 15 km south of Mount Gambier. But not long enough to forget the awesome landscape all around this 158 metre high mountain – and the fantastic view below me in the crater.
Experience life in a volcano by continuing the walk around the rim and down a VERY steep trail into the crater!
(BONUS: Read about my other adventures on the Kanawinka GeoTrail HERE)
Like what you’ve seen so far?
Then go straight to Part Two of The Ultimate Beginners Guide to the Limestone Coast – Link BELOW!!
The post The Ultimate Beginners Guide to the Limestone Coast – Part ONE appeared first on Australia by Red Nomad OZ.
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